Flame Guard and Flame Lock Gas Water Heaters are made by American Water Heater Company and sold under the names American Proline, Whirlpool, Envirotemp, Mor-Flo, Powerflex, Premier Plus, US Craftmaster and possibly others. The Flame Guard and Flame Lock are names for FVIR (Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant) Technology designed and manufactured by American Water Heaters. FVIR is a required safety design on gas water heaters that includes a sealed combustion chamber with a flame arresting barrier on the combustion air inlet and a device that detects a taller burner or pilot flame and shuts off the gas supply to the burner. If flammable vapors enter through the flame arresting barrier they may burn as excess fuel in the burner area but the flame cannot flash back through the flame arrestor to the source of the vapors preventing fire and explosion. Older styles of water heaters without the FVIR Technology could be an ignition source for flammable vapors, possibly causing and explosion and fire if a flammable liquid was spilled nearby.
Clogged Flame Arrestor on the Bottom of the Water Heater
Burner Enhancement Kit
There are a lot of possible problems with water heaters many of them quite generic which will not be covered in this trouble shooting guide. The focus will be on problems specific to the Flame Guard and Flame Lock design water heaters.
Early models of the Flame Guard and Flame Lock Water Heaters had a specially designed thermocouple that included a one time use thermal fuse that was designed to trip when a taller than normal flame occurred. These thermocouples were unusual in that they had a thermal fuse in addition to the usual flame detection function and they had a left handed thread to prevent the substitution of a regular thermocouple. The availability of these unique thermocouples was limited to a limited supply at Lowes and through American Water Heaters. The poor supply of replacement thermocouples with a fee for shipping and handling from American Water Heaters resulted in a Class Action Suit and Settlement where owners were supplied with a “Enhanced Burner Assembly” which included a new combustion chamber door, pilot/thermocouple assembly, burner assembly, and a thermocouple adapter. The models included in this suit have a round sight glass in the burner door and have serial numbers beginning with “FG” and “FL” and were manufactured between 2000 and 2006. Water heaters manufactured after 2006 have the “Enhanced Burner Assembly” already installed and have a serial number starting with a “B” The Class Action Settlement Period ended June 28, 2008.
Thermocouple Adapter
The “Enhanced Burner Assembly” fixed the problem with the one time use thermocouple by using a resettable thermocouple which screwed into a thermocouple adapter. The thermocouple adapter screws into the left hand threads where the original thermally fused thermocouple screwed into the gas valve. Instead there is a reset button in the door of the burner assembly and 2 wires which connect to the thermocouple adapter.
FVIR Reset Button
The basic problem in most cases is a lack of combustion air caused by the screen of the air inlet on the bottom of the water heater. Frequent cleaning of this screen is required to avoid trouble. When the burner becomes starved for air the flame gets taller just like it would in an FVIR event and causes the sensor to trip. Some of the kits along the way also included a prefilter that wraps around the base of the water heater. If you have one of these keep it clean as well. Many people have luck making up a piece of pipe with an elbow on it to attach on the end of a vacuum cleaner hose to vacuum clean the screen under the water heater.
If cleaning the flame arrestor screen under the unit does not cure the problem there may be other problems relating to draft, insufficient combustion air, negative air pressure in the building or another problem in the unit that is best left to a licensed plumber.
If you have any questions or need additional help please leave a comment and I will reply.
Is State Industries water heater covered under the Class Action? My hot water heater is 5.5 years old. I replaced the thermocouple with the one-time fuse back in January with an identical setup (replaced the whole burner assembly/door/pilot/thermocouple/flare-resistant barrier, etc. – I was unaware of this “burner enhancement kit” until today so I still have the one-time FVIR fuse setup).
The unit had been working fine since this first replacement until about a couple weeks ago. This time the pilot would light just fine and stay lit, so no FVIR busted fuse this time. I checked the voltage of the thermocouple and it is still fine – ~18-20mV within a few seconds after lighting the pilot. After lighting the pilot and resetting the thermostat to the desired temperature, the unit will either work for a few hours to a day at best. I’ve cycled the thermostat setting many times to ensure that the burner start/stop sequence is not affecting the pilot flame to cause the thermocouple to cool and trigger the gas to shut off. This seems to be working fine. The flame color is a nice blue.
The air inlet is clean (I learned about this back in January). Do you think the gas regulator/thermostat assembly is faulty? Is there a way to test it or do I need to just replace the part and hope?
The model # is GS640YOCT and built on Sept 2, 2004 (sold to me on Feb 12, 2005)
Thanks,
Jim
Hi Jim,
I know the Class Action extends to American & Whirlpool but I’m not sure about the other brands being included.
I would contact State Industries at 800-365-8170 with your Model # and Serial # handy to see what they say.
Redwood
I just recently had some problems with my Whirlpool heater, after five years of no worries. This is when I became aware of the problems mentioned above. In my state, new water heaters are required by code to have a metal pan underneath them (I have no idea why, it looks pretty stupid to me). This makes it impossible to get any kind of tool down there to clean underneath a Whirlpool water heater. Here is a good example of how over-engineering to solve “problems” (which are virtually non-existent) actually makes the situation more dangerous. In my case, frequently removing and replacing the burner unit in order to clean the screen in the bottom. One wonders what the effect would be of drilling a hole in the bottom of the combustion chamber in order to provide air intake. I guess a new water heater is in my future.
Hi Will,
The metal pan is not a bad idea and it should have a drain in it which will aid in preventing water damage should the water heater start leaking. It does however on water heaters where the air inlet is on the bottom make cleaning it very difficult. Where is that Fuller Brush Man when you need him? Some people have indicated that toilet cleaning brushes work well.
Drilling holes in the combustion chamber while it would aid in getting air into the unit would also circumvent the FVIR safety system and make flashback to a flammable liquid spill a real possibility. If that happened would it jeopardize a claim on your fire insurance? As a plumbing professional my liability would be hanging out there on the ragged edge if I ever did this or, endorsed doing it. Therefore I will simply say I do not advise defeating the FVIR system by drilling holes in the combustion chamber.
Redwood
Probably a dumb question: is the FVIR reset button in the picture you have tripped or not? I assume not since mine is in that position and I can’t push it in. I have a flame guard water heater whose pilot light went out and won’t stay lit. I checked the thermocouple and it’s fine. Looks like I need a new controller? Purchase date was July 2008, so not part of the class action suit? Recommendations?
Thanks
Scott
Hi Scott,
Sorry to hear You aren’t in hot water.
It sounds like the FVIR reset button has not tripped on your unit.
If the air inlet is clean and the thermocouple is properly placed in the flame then yes you are probably correct in what you need to replace. A number of people however have had thermocouples that “Tested Good” yet didn’t work in the system. These units are extremely temperamental, and many in the service business dislike working on them.
I would call American Water Heaters at their 1-800-999-9515 help line, they will assist in the diagnosis and give you parts.
Redwood
thanks for the help and the swift reply!
I found your site after wearing a permanent red-pilot-button hole in my thumb, having already replaced the thermocouple with a stock one from Lowe’s (and the threads are right handed). I will light the pilot, hold the button for two-ish minutes, release the button, … and watch the flame go out. I have repeated these steps often enough that I can guarantee the outcome with certainty.
About the FVIR button: I have also pushed that thing with my spare thumb (so it’s got a small hole in it) at various times in the process and for various lengths of times. By the way, are the leads to it polarized? I thought perhaps that I had switched the leads so I reversed them and went back to pushing buttons. Great fun. Same result, so far.
Here’s my more serious question: when I could not get the pilot to stay lit with the new thermocouple, I reasoned that the thermocouple was not getting hot enough and physically bent pilot outlet and thermocouple toward each other. Was this poor logic? Is the flame staying out because the thermocouple is too hot — a remnant of the whole “flame taller than normal” that you describe above?
I have not cleaned the intake screen yet, as it is late Saturday and my flashlight is not working well so I am putting off that task until daylight. If the screen is plugged would I still get a nice blue flame? My pilot’s flame is just gorgeous as long as I can hold that red button down. How long does it take for a pilot flame to heat up the whole tank? Just joking… sort of….
Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi Tom,
The FVIR switch button does not need to be held if that is any consolation. Stop wearing a hole in your finger!
The pilot on the other hand does at least until the thermocouple heats enough to hold the pilot valve open on its own.
I would start out with cleaning the flame arrestor, but I suspect that you have either an improperly placed thermocouple, defective thermocouple, or, a bad gas valve. The Robert Shaw gas valves they have used were problematic.
In any case you need to call the help # and wait for the parts to arrive.
Hopefully the ones you need.
The pilot might heat the whole tank by the time you get the parts.
I doubt your thumb will be up for the task though.
Redwood
HI,
I have a john wood flame guard water heater. It seems the pilot light goes out all the time. We did replace thermo couple last year, but still
having trouble. Any suggestions. I bought the unit about 3 -4 years ago. Its model number jw40s38fv-02pro series. It seems like when
I relit pilot light it makes a swoosh noise. Husband says its condensation. How do I avoid condensation?
Thanks,
Donna
Hi Donna,
Condensation would come from cold water in the tank either from the burner being out or, the water heater being undersized and the hot water in the tank being depleted. I doubt that it is your primary problem with the unit.
Make sure the air inlet under the unit is clean.
Make sure the thermocouple is properly placed in the pilot flame.
If the unit continues to go out call their tech support # and it probably is a bad thermocouple or, bad gas valve.
Redwood
After installing the fg enhancement kit we get a stange smell, sort of like burning metal, when the heater is actively heating. It’s only been a few days since installing, is this normal. I have testing the gas lines for leaks, and there are none that I could find.
Hi Jay,
I find it almost unbelievable that any water heater manufacturer could get away with simply handing a homeowner a burner replacement kit and directions on how to install it as part of a class action suit for a defective product. But our countries legal system allowed it to happen. In my opinion work of this magnitude is the work of a licensed plumber and not something for a DIY homeowner.
The smell you are getting may simply be oils used in the metal fabrication of the burner and nothing to worry about.
Or, it may be much worse and a danger to your family.
Problems may exist such as vent spillover allowing Carbon Monoxide into your house or, an undetected gas leak which presents a danger of asphyxiation, explosion, and fire.
I urge you to have the installation checked by a licensed plumber for your and your family’s safety.
Redwood
Just installed the right handed conversion kit and lit the water heater. Everything was fine at first, then I started hearing a dripping and sizzling. When I looked in the viewport I noticed the flame turned from blue to orange when the dripping and sizzling would occur so I shut the gas off. The dripping and sizzling continued for a few more minutes after the gas was turned off. I thought it may be condensation but I’m not 100% sure. How do I remedy this problem?
Hi Jeremy,
I’d turn it back on and let it finish the heat cycle. Watch it close!
It may be either a leak or, condensation.
If it stops as the tank warms up more than likely it is condensation but continue with a close eye for several days to be sure.
If it is a leak you are looking at replacement.
Redwood
Hello I am a plumber and came across a American Pro Line roughly 9 yrs old, in great shape except hot water is very short. Could this be the thermal couple problem that you spoke of, or could it be a rotting dip tube. like I said it is in exceptional shape and no visible signs of any rust. Any help is appreciated.
Hi Mark,
It’s not the thermocouple or the pilot would be out.
I’d suspect a dip tube or thermostat problem.
Redwood
Hi
I have a brand new 2month old, 2 weeks installed, (by a licensed plumber) Rheem model (from) HG to SG series 40 gal tall GAS hot water tank, the sump pump failed the other nite and the pilot lite failed, water was not in basement long, less than an hour. We’ve tried to start it. When we called the co. and they told us since there was water involved the warranty is now void. as is the extended one purchased with the unit, although we still have to pay for it on our HD card I under stand that there is a reset/lockout button to reset the tanks pilot. My niece bought for 400.00 for the tank after the last flood took out our 15 yr old tank, as a gift, and I am truly sick to my stomach about this tank. would rather have the old type, at least I could just wait til it dried out and lite it. with that said “WHERE THE HECK IS THIS SO CALLED RESET BUTTON AND, OR HAVE I JUST BEEN SCREWED BY THE CO THAT MADE THIS POJ SAFETY FEATURE, AND MY NIECE OUT 400.00″ and I almost 70.00 delivery fee, from 2 miles away I CANT TELL HER IT WOULD MAKE HER EVEN MORE TICKED THAN I.
HEEEELLLP
MEGG
PS
WE DO NOT “TECHNICALLY” LIVE IN A FLOOD PLAIN BUT WE ARE A HALF MILE AWAY FROM A PART OF THE HURON RIVER SYSTEM, (ROUGE RIVER,SYSTEM,IN DETROIT MI), AND FLOOD “EVERY TIME” IT RAINS HARD FOR A FEW DAYS AND DO NOT QUALIFY FOR FLOOD INS. AND IF WE GOT SOME IT WOULD BE RIDICULOUS. AND OUR HOME OWNERS DOESN’T COVER FLOOD DAMAGED ITEMS
Hi Megg,
Although your water heater is not the same brand as the Flame Guard & Flame Lock water heaters described in this post the FVIR system described is similar, It is just a better design that Rheem has on their water heaters.
Flood damage on gas water heaters is not something to play around with on any water heater whether it is FVIR of not. Many manufacturers state to either replace the water heater or, at a minimum replace many of the components touched by the water from the flooding and this is for both gas and electric water heaters. The FVIR water heaters are required by law for your safety so you do not have a choice in that matter any longer. The FVIR System of your water heater has not and is not malfunctioning, your problems are flood related.
Rheem Technical Service Bulletin #1208 States:
Since this seems to be happening to you often I would suggest several things that may help prevent the water heater from being flooded again:
I recommend raising the water heater as high as possible on a platform in an attempt to keep it above the flood waters, you may even change to a low profile water heater to gain more platform height. You will need to have the exhaust venting changed in order to get the maximum height as the vent has pitch requirements.
Since you are talking about the sump pump failing causing the flooding I also suggest some improvements in your sump pump system for greater reliability. The following links to other articles on 411Plumb should prove helpful.
Zoeller Aquanot I & II Battery Backup Sump Pump Review
Water Powered Backup Sump Pump Guide
Duplex Sump Pumps For A Dry Basement
I hope this information is useful to you and you don’t suffer flooding again,
Redwood
Thanks for the site! We have an “FG” model water heater and no hot water. Of course the thermocouples at the store are universal EXCEPT for “FG” models. An internet search led me to your site where I got the phone number for American Water Heater company and the conversion kit is on its’ way. It is being overnighted and I should have hot water in about 36 hours! Thanks again!
Hi Rachel,
Glad we could do our part to get you into hot water.
Make sure that you clean the flame arrestor under the water heater so you don’t have additional false FVIR trips.
Good luck with getting the kit installed and the water heater operating again.
Redwood
My FG model water heater won’t run for very long. It will run for about 10 or 15 minutes and then shut off. I removed the burner assembly and cleaned all debris from the burner area. I also checked the flue within the water heater to make sure that there were no obstructions. The fresh air screen on the bottom is clear and there is a good draft in the flue pipe. Once the burner and pilot shut down, it takes about an hour or two until it can be restarted. I did replace the thermocouple just in case. The pilot will light but will only stay lit until you release the red button during the period immediately following the burner going out. But if you wait, it will restart. What gives? Could the sensor be bad or the gas valve?
Hi Gary,
My first question is whether or not you have an early model that hasn’t had the “Burner Enhancement Kit” installed or, a later model or earlier model that has had the kit installed or incorporated in the design? Basically is the thermocouple still the one-time thermal fuse or, is there a reset button for FVIR events? Once the “Burner Enhancement Kit” has been installed we can work on the rest. Without the kit installed it is a “Crap Shoot.”
Next You will need to check and make sure the thermocouple is seated all the way into the holder so the thermocouple is properly placed in the pilot flame.
Next using a multimeter after the pilot has been lit for 45 seconds you should read a 12 millivolts or higher voltage from the thermocouple. If the voltage is lower than 12 millivolts the thermocouple is bad and needs replacement. If the voltage is 12 millivolts or higher the gas valve is bad and requires replacement.
I’ll be e-mailing you the FlameGuard Troubleshooting PDF, watch for it.
Redwood
I have a Whirlpool (bought at Lowes) that claims to be a US Craftmaster SG1J404073NOV (can’t find on web) that only produces lukewarm water. The pilot seems is on but never “heats” water. The electronic Honeywell controller (WV8870a 1008) flashes ok. Any thoughts? I am starting to think the old mechanical controllers were better – less parts to fail.
Turned of controller and gas. Waited about it a minute. Relit pilot flame. Appears to be working. Should be ret instructions on the unit!
Hi Fred,
That was easy I guess.
Do you have the owners manual for the water heater?
I was looking for the Owners Manual PDF for your water heater on my computer for you when you replied. I have one for an American Water Heaters product that uses that Electronic Gas Valve that I could e-mail to you if you need it. I love the way they keep their sites updated with product information, just look for it on about 3 different sites and you just might find what you are looking for.
Redwood
I have a new ( Jan 2012 ) 50 gal Whirlpool NG – FG heater. About the end of feb the pilot light started to go out. This has happen 3 times now aways at night. I can restart it with no problem. I called the help line at Whirlpool and the guy told me that this unit had to be installed with a single pipe exhaust. Mine is routed with a furnace pipe. Is this right. The house is 25 years old and 2 other water heaters have worked 10 years each until they started to leak water.
My pipes are double walled 2 small bends by the furnace.
Any Ideas?
thanks
fvf
Hi Frank,
I’ve got a couple of questions.
Did you install this yourself or, did you have someone install the water heater?
If it was installed by someone I would call them back to have them fix it under warranty.
Does the furnace have an induced draft? (A blower on the exhaust)
Redwood
I have a 6 year old G.E. water heater and the combustion air button under the burner popped up and shut off the combustion air. Can this button be reset and how.
Hi Joe,
The GE uses the same system as the Rheem/Ruud/Richmond water heaters where a glass vial filled with oil inside the combustion chamber breaks when it gets too hot. Call the phone number on the sticker to get a replacement vial. You will need to have the combustion chamber taken apart to replace it, and to clean the air inlet so it will not break again.
Redwood
I have just replaced my water heater left handed conversion kit for a whirlpool. Yes it is installed as recommended but the pilot lite will not stay lite after holding the manual button down for over a minute. Everything is brand new. I have never seen that “adapter” before. is there tests that I can do to prove that the parts are good. I just don’t know what to do from here.
signed,
Not Happy
Hi Larry or, Not Happy,
We’ll have to see what we can do about changing your happiness level. The first thing I would do is recheck the installation of the conversion kit and specifically recheck that the thermocouple is pushed into the holder all the way so that it is properly centered over the pilot flame as shown in the picture below.
If the thermocouple is installed properly the next step would be to unscrew the thermocouple from the gas valve and check the voltage the thermocouple is producing while the pilot light is lit after 45 seconds of operation. Using a multimeter with alligator clip leads attach the red lead to the body (copper part) of the thermocouple. Attach the black lead to the end (silver part) of the thermocouple that connects to the thermostat. Follow the instruction to light the pilot and watch the voltage readings the meter should read 12 millivolts or more.
If the voltage reading is lower than 12 millivolts the thermocouple is bad and you need a new one.
If the voltage reading is 12 millivolts or, higher then the gas valve is bad and you need a new gas valve installed.
Hopefully it’s just the thermocouple which you can get locally, if it is the gas valve you are back to calling American Water Heaters and waiting for the parts to arrive again before you can have hot water.
Hope this helps,
Redwood