The AO Smith Voltex uses a heat pump to pump heat from the ambient air into the water in the tank yielding an Energy Factor of 2.3 when heating in the efficiency and hybrid modes of operation and a Coefficient of Performance (COP) of 3.1, which means they meet the Energy Star requirements for rebates under the Appliance Stimulus Package, and Income Tax Credits of 30% up to $1500. These rebates and tax credits are a direct result of the government promoting energy saving products and stimulating the economy.

The AO Smith Voltex Hybrid Electric Water Heater model PHPT-80 is an 80-gallon heat pump water heater, which uses an 850-watt compressor to pump the R-134A refrigerant through the heat pump system. The heat exchanger coil and compressor are mounted on top of the unit pulling heat from the air in the room then sends the heat down to another heat exchanger coil wrapped around the tank which heats the water in the tank. The heat pump exhausts cool air into the room and also removes humidity from the air passing through it acting as a dehumidifier, so a condensate drain is required as part of the installation. The AO Smith Voltex PHPT-80 also has two incoloy heating elements, which can heat the water like a typical electric water heater. The upper element is a 4,500-watt element and the lower element is a 2,000-watt element.

The AO Smith Voltex Hybrid Electric Water Heater model PHPT-80 has four heating modes, which can be set by the owner. The Voltex has a control panel with an LCD screen that shows the set point, mode/status, heat pump on, elements on, level of efficiency, and whether the control panel is locked or, not. The Efficiency Mode utilizes only the heat pump for heating the water. The heat pump has an effective use range of 45-degrees F (7.22C) to 109-degrees F (42.8C), if the ambient temperature is out of that range or, hot water usage is higher than the heat pump can produce the hybrid mode should be selected. The Hybrid Mode can utilize both the heat pump and the electric elements to heat the water. In the hybrid mode the heat pump is the primary method used to heat the water but when the demand exceeds a preset level the elements will turn on to help meet the increased demand. The Electric Mode when selected has the water heater operate as a conventional electric water heater with only the elements providing hot water. The Voltex also has a Vacation Mode where the water heater will maintain a temperature of 60-degrees F (15.6C) for use when hot water will not be used for an extended period of time and to prevent freezing damage to the unit.

The AO Smith Voltex Hybrid Electric Water Heater model PHPT-80 has a first hour delivery of 70-gallons in the efficiency mode, 84-gallons in hybrid mode, and 76-gallons in the electric mode. AO Smith recommends installation in a room with 1,000 cu. ft. of size with free airflow in and out of the unit. When a condensate pump is used there is a condensate pump wiring loop that can be connected to a float switch on the condensate pump which when activated by a failed pump will cause the heat pump to shut off and “Condensate Drain Alarm” to display on the control panel. The Voltex has an easy to remove washable air filter, a powered anode rod, brass drain valve, two inches of non-cfc foam insulation, and a factory installed T&P valve. The AO Smith Voltex Hybrid Electric Water Heater model PHPT-80 is supplied with a 10-Year Limited Warranty.

The thermal expansion tanks used on water heaters should be listed as “Potable Water Expansion Tanks” which means they are constructed from materials that are safe to use on drinking water systems. Expansion tanks are also used on hot water boilers but the water in those systems are never consumed so the materials used are different. Make sure the right type of expansion tank is used on your potable water system. The expansion tank should be connected on the inlet side of the water heater and connected by a tee between the inlet to the water heater and the shut off valve on the inlet of the water heater. There should be no valve between the water heater and the expansion tank, which would defeat the protection provided by the expansion tank. The water in the tank will add considerable weight to the expansion tank and it should be adequately supported to avoid placing stress on the pipes. The tank may have a longer line plumbed to it allowing the tank to be remotely mounted. it does not have to be directly on top of the water heater.

Potable Water Thermal Expansion Tanks are made by a few different companies, Watts with their model PLT-5, PLT-12, PLT-20, and PLT-35 tanks used in residential and light commercial, and Amtrol with their Therm-X-Trol model ST-5, ST-8, ST-12, and ST-25V tanks also used in residential and light commercial are very popular. Larger commercial water heating systems would require using an ASME Rated expansion tank. The tanks are made of drawn steel that has a rubber bladder dividing the tank into two sections. On one side there is a threaded connection that allows water to enter the tank. On the other side there is an air valve similar to the one on a tire through which the air pressure of the pre-charge on the air side of the bladder can be adjusted and checked. The pre-charge should match the typical pressure on your water supply system. The air is able to compress which allows the expanding water to enter the expansion tank with only a slight increase in system pressure preventing the water heater tank from experiencing pressure cycles and providing a substantial increase of the service life expectancy of your water heater.

Another common cause of aerators that started in recent years was defective plastic dip tubes that were installed in many makes and models of water heaters between August 1993 and October 1996. Perfection Corporation supplied plastic dip tubes for many of the water heater companies as a component, that was defective resulting in a Class Action Lawsuit which is now past. The dip tubes broke down into small pieces, which are white or, whitish grey often-clogging aerators, washing machine inlet screens, showerheads, and other restrictions where the debris could catch. You can check the debris to see if it is a dip tube problem by soaking the debris in vinegar and see if it breaks down in the vinegar or, not. If the debris does not break down chances are that the debris is not minerals but is a dip tube problem. Researching your water heater serial number you probably will find your water heater on the list of water heaters with the defective dip tube. The remedy in this case with the newest water heater with the defective tube being 13 years old at the time this article was published is probably best to just replace the water heater with a new one. The water heater would be close to the end of its expected service life.

To clean the aerator simply unscrew the aerator from the faucet, once the aerator is off the faucet run the water to flush out the faucet with any debris which might be remaining coming out. Take the aerator apart keeping the parts in order of assembly so you will be able to reassemble the parts then clean out any debris in the aerator. Usually a sharp pointed tool can pick any debris caught in the restrictor and make sure the holes are all clear. The screens usually rinse clean or, may need a finger rubbing across them to clean them. Then reassemble the parts in order putting them all back together. Then screw the aerator back onto the faucet and test for proper operation. In cases where the aerator has a severe build up of minerals from hard water you can soak the aerator over night in vinegar or CLR to remove the mineral build up then reinstall the aerator on the faucet. Aerators are very inexpensive and can be replaced as well.

Voltex Heat Pump Water Heater offers 3 different modes of operation, the standard, electric and hybrid heat pump modes. You can choose the best one that will best suit your needs. With AO Smith’s Voltex Heat Pump Water Heater coming soon, you will have a water heater that is cost effective that will save you money on your water bills and your energy bills. With the Voltex Heat Pump Water Heater you may qualify for a tax credit of up to $ 1500.00. You can also check with your local utilities companies for any additional rebates or tax credits. The Voltex Heat Pump Water Heater will be a great addition to your home. Imagine the savings when you install the Voltex Heat Pump Water Heater.

When faced with not enough hot water you need to first examine whether there is a sufficient capacity of hot water available to meet your needs. A tank storage type water heater can be expected to deliver about 70% of the volume of the storage tank before the incoming cold water dilutes the outgoing hot water dropping the temperature 20-degrees F. Add to this figure the recovery rate at which your water heater can heat the incoming cold water and you will have an idea of your capacity. Tankless coils heat the water as you use it and they are rated in gallons per minute with what they can provide. Tankless coils can deliver their rated capacity endlessly but cannot exceed that capacity without a drop in temperature. Naturally both will be working harder in the winter when incoming water temperatures are much colder. An easy to determine method is that if the system has met your needs in the past and your hot water demand has not changed then something has gone wrong and needs to be fixed. If you are a new home owner then sizing may be part of the problem and should be looked at as well as possible problems that may be mechanical or, electrical. If you have a system which normally meets your needs but you have an unusual situation such as a large number of house guests you will need to determine if you should modify usage during that time or, go to a larger system to cover your needs during the unusually high usage.

Not enough hot water with tank type water heaters can be caused by a number of problems. A thermostat not functioning properly could be causing the temperature of the stored water in the tank to be lower than it should be. Typically the thermostat has a temperature, which it turns on the heating, and a temperature at which it turns off. This is called the differential and sometimes when a thermostat ages and fails when the tank slowly cools the thermostat does not always turn on when it should. People will often figure this problem out when they find if they just jump in the shower they run out of hot water, but if they use water first causing the water heater to reheat then shower they have enough. With electric water heaters a frequent cause of not enough hot water is a burned out lower element due to a build up of sediment in the bottom of the tank, which causes only the top half of the water heater to have hot water. Older gas water heaters may have a similar layer of sediment, which insulates the bottom of the tank from the flame slowing the recovery rate. Another problem that many older water heaters face that were built between August 1993 and October 1996 is they were built with a defective dip tube. Almost all the manufacturers used the dip tubes that had the defect and this resulted in a class action lawsuit, which is now past the settlement date. The dip tube in these water heaters disintegrated often showing up as a white-grey debris, which clogged aerators, the dip tubes function is to direct incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank. With a disintegrated dip tube incoming cold water mixes with and dilutes the outgoing hot water causing the water heater to provide cold water before its storage capacity should have been exhausted.

Tankless coils in boilers may provide not enough hot water as they age and become clogged with minerals from the water. With hard water the buildup is usually faster and you may be able to have the coil cleaned by a plumber who will flush the coil with a acid which breaks down the minerals. Sometimes the coil is beyond repair and in these cases installing an indirect water heater on a separate zone from your boiler is a great idea. Indirect water heaters can provide abundant amounts of hot water sometime several times the amount of a similar sized gas or, electric water heater.

Problems on the distribution side can also make it so you do not have enough hot water. Sometimes water heaters and tankless coils may have a tempering valve on them, which mixes cold water with the outgoing hot water to maintain a safe temperature and prevent scalding. This tempering valve can make it seem as though the hot water has run out. A failure that often happens with the tempering valve is that you have hot water when you run a kitchen or, lavatory faucet but when you use a larger flow fixture like a bath tub or, a clothes washer the water rapidly changes to cold or, never gets hot. Sometimes a defective cartridge on a faucet can cause the hot water and cold water to have a cross connection which can cause temperature problems. Moen and Mixet are two of the better-known valves which can cause a cross connection. Any faucet where both the hot and cold water can be turned on allowing a connection and have the outlet turned off can cause this problem. Sometimes too the problem can be as simple as a hot limit stop on a tub/shower mixer that was set when higher cold-water temperatures were present and with the change of seasons the limit needs to be reset. In homes that have slab construction sometimes there may be a leak under the slab that is always flowing hot water. This constant leakage may make you not have enough hot water. Symptoms of a slab leak can be a water heater running almost constantly or, a hot spot on the floor.

As you can see by the many possible causes this is a problem that requires a careful logical approach to the troubleshooting and often there are symptoms, which you can give the plumber, which can aid in the diagnosis of the problem. Sometimes too you may be able to find the problem yourself. In any case not enough hot water requires careful methodical troubleshooting to determine the exact cause and misdiagnosis can be quite costly. There is a big difference in cost between turning a screw on a hot limit stop and installing a new water heater or, repairing a leak under the slab.

A hissing or, popping sound when the water heater is reheating is one of the more common sounds a water heater makes. When water is heated the water molecules expand taking up more room leaving less room for other things in the solution. The hardness minerals dissolved in the water such as lime feel this molecular expansion and precipitate out of the solution falling to the bottom of the water heater. The minerals build up on the bottom of the water heater and if you do not periodically flush the water heater will eventually coat the bottom of the water heater and may even cover the lower element in an electric water heater. This thick layer of minerals acts as insulation and keeps the water from having direct contact with the element of bottom of the tank. Water entrapped in the blanket of minerals being heated by the element on an electric water heater or, by the bottom of the tank on a gas water heater actually makes a series of small steam explosions as it is heated making hissing and popping sounds. If you have waited this long to flush your water heater the build up is probably quite hard and will not break up with just flushing. With gas water heaters the efficiency of the units will suffer, as the heat does not pass through the blanket of minerals as efficiently. With electric water heaters the build up covering the lower element will also affect heat transfer and many times will cause the element to overheat and burn out. With electric water heaters it is possible when changing a lower element to reach in through the hole for the lower element and break up the minerals so they may be flushed out.

A tapping noise or, buzzing noise when water is flowing can be caused by heat traps installed on the inlet and outlet of your water heater. Heat traps are basically small automatic valves that seal the inlet and outlet of the water heater when water is not flowing keeping the heat inside the insulated water heater instead of allowing the heat to escape into the pipes where it would be lost. Some manufacturers use heat traps that use a mechanism like a marble to seal the heat in. When water is flowing the “marble” moves in the flow making a tapping noise. Other manufacturers use heat traps, which have a flexible flapper type valve. This flexible flapper may vibrate at certain flow levels causing a buzzing sound when water is drawn. These sounds are generally harmless and will seem loudest at the inlet and outlet although the sound may transmit some distance away.

A banging noise when the water is shut off is usually water hammer. Water hammer is caused by the momentum of the water moving in the pipe coming to a sudden stop. The noise will often be a series of bangs louder at first and tapering off then stopping. Pipes that are not properly secured moving from the momentum can be a cause as well as excessive velocities of the flowing water in the pipes. Undersized pipes, and or, excessive pressure can cause the higher velocities. The pressure of your water supply should not exceed 80-psi and if it does a pressure-reducing valve should be installed in most cases with the pressure-reducing valve a thermal expansion tank should also be installed. Excessive velocities in a pipe may cause erosion of the pipe material resulting in leaks. Water hammer is a problem that may cause damage to components of your water supply system and should be addressed.

Jackhammer sounds are almost always accompanied by pulsations in the flow of water. This is usually caused by something loose in the stream of water, which in a sense is turning the water on and off rapidly making a constant series of water hammer type noises. These noises will often vary with the flow volume and may often disappear or, appear only within a certain flow range. Many times the loose debris may be a rubber washer on a valve that has come loose often from recent use. This is something that should be addressed as often it indicates a valve that will no longer function.

In any case while some noises may be harmless and not require any attention some may be serious and require repairs. For your safety it may be best to have a plumber check the noise out for you and determine its cause and if repairs are needed. Some noises particularly those relating to a gas burner operating on a water heater may be very serious and it is better to be safe than sorry.

The Crown Mega-Stor Indirect Water Heaters feature a tank constructed from 316l stainless steel and have a stainless steel coil through which hot water from the boiler flows heating the water on the tank. The coil is plumbed on a separate zone on the boiler to control when water needs to be heated. The Crown Mega-Stor Indirect Water Heaters can provide a first hour delivery from 103 to 417-gallons of hot water with a 90-degree rise depending on the size of the water heater and boiler used. The Mega Stor comes in the model MS-26 26-gallon, MS-40 39-gallon, MS-53 51-gallon, MS-79 80-gallon, and MS-119 112-gallon round tanks and the MSH-40H 38-gallon, and MSH-53H 51-gallon horizontal tanks which most Crown Boilers can mount on top of for a small footprint for your heating and domestic hot water package. The Crown Mega Stor Indirect Water Heaters have an removable inspection cap on the top of the round tanks and on the front of the horizontal tanks which can be opened to allow viewing the inside of the tank and the coil. The Mega Stor has an adjustable Honeywell aquastat and a drain at the bottom provided to allow flushing sediment from the tank the tank. The Mega Stor tanks are insulated with 2” polystyrene foam insulation to minimize standby heat loss with a jacket made of high impact plastic. The Crown Mega-Stor Indirect Water Heaters come with a Lifetime Warranty covering leakage on the stainless steel tank and coil.

Lets first look at how a tank type water heater works. The residential tank water heater is typically 40 – 80 gallons in size and about 70% of the water in the tank can be used before the incoming cold water mixes with the stored hot water and a temperature difference becomes noticeable. The water is stored and ready for use so reheating is not required to be instant and the water is typically heated by a 4500 watt electric element, or 40,000 Btu burner. An electric water heater might recover 20 gallons of hot water an hour if it had to heat it 90 degrees, or a gas water heater might do 30 or, 40 gallons per hour under the same conditions. Basically we are saying the tanks heat slow and store a large quantity so you have enough.

Now lets look at tankless water heaters and how they operate. With tankless water is not stored hot. When you turn on a hot faucet and the flow meets the minimum flow requirement of the flow sensor for the tankless water heater the unit will turn on and start heating water. The minimum flow varies with different manufacturers and models. The tankless unit is required to instantly heat the water you are using so a large burner is used with a burner that modulates adjusting the burner flame to the size you need for the amount of water you are flowing. This burner may modulate from 10,000 Btu to 199,000 Btu in residential units. Electric tankless water heaters require high amperage power supplies as high as 160 amps for some. Once the water stops flowing the heating cuts off until the next time the sensor activates from water flowing.

Lets examine some of the differences and implications between tank and tankless water heating.

The difference in energy consumption rates: The amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of a gallon of water from 50 to 120 Degrees F is the same whether it is done fast or slow. However, use of a tankless requires large amounts of energy available for the instant heating. Your gas or, electric service may require upgrading to supply the energy the tankless requires. The 199,000 Btu vs. 40,000 Btu burner or 160 amperes vs. 30 amperes are significant differences in demand. The added cost of a service upgrade if needed could be significant.

Temperature rise and how it affects water heating: With a tank water heater the speed at which the tank recovers is longer with colder incoming water supplies. The burner flame or electric heating element doesn’t change even though the heating requirements do. This is part of the tank sizing where the tank is sized large enough that you don’t run out even after using some of the water and needing more while it is recovering. With tankless water heating you are limited by how much the water being used can be heated by a given burner size. In warm areas with higher incoming water temperatures this will not be as significant as an area where winter water temperatures may be 35 Degrees F. Years ago the manufacturers were calling this specification “Rate of Rise” now they are referring to it as “Delta T.” In the specifications for the tankless unit you are considering showing the maximum flow that can be heated to 120 Degrees F from various incoming water temperatures. A tankless heater may supply 120-degree water at 6.3 gallons per minute up to a 40-degree Delta T. A 60-degree Delta T might provide 4 gallons per minute. An 85-degree Delta T might provide 2.8 gallons per minute of 120 Degree F water. So while a tankless water heater will never run out of hot water the tankless does have limitations in how much volume it can produce especially with colder incoming water temperatures. The tankless unit or units in some cases have to be sized to meet the demands of your water usage even at the coldest incoming water temperatures of the year.

Standby heat loss: Many people place a high value on the stand by heat loss of a tank type water heater in comparison to a tankless heater not storing heated water. In the case of today’s well-insulated electric water heaters the standby heat loss is fairly low and slightly higher in gas water heaters with the flue running up through the center of the tank. Standby loss is typically somewhere in the range of 25 to 50 cents per day.

Space is a good reason to consider tankless water heaters. Interior tankless units can fit in a closet on a wall and in warmer climates exterior tankless units can be mounted on an outside wall. Tankless uses far less space than a tank type water heater.

Tank type water heaters have a service life of about 12 years while tankless water heaters are expected to last 20 years. Neither water heater is maintenance free however. Minerals are present in water (hardness) and when water is heated the minerals precipitate out of the water. Tank water heaters should be flushed at least once per year to remove the lime deposits from the bottom of the tank. A severe build up in a tank water heater can cause the lower element in an electric water heater to burn out and in a gas water heater insulate the water from the burner. In a tankless water heater the tankless coil can become clogged with lime and the de-liming service is recommended every year or in extremely hard water conditions more often.

I hesitate to offer price differences because they vary widely across the country but a good estimate to install a tankless vs. a tank type water heater is probably 2½ times higher to put in a tankless over a tank type. There are a lot of variables and the only way to be sure is getting quotes and comparing. I would not recommend a DIYer installing a tankless water heater as they are very complex and many things have to be considered to have a satisfactory installation.

Hopefully this helps you understand Tankless Water Heating and will have you asking the right questions about tankless so that you understand the decision you are making. Only you can answer the question if tankless is right for you.

Energy Star estimates that a heat pump water heater could save a 2.6 person household $290 per year on their water heating costs. This savings could be almost ½ of your water heating costs for the year. Actual performance of the heat pump is dependant on the ambient heat where it is installed. Using the heat pump in the southern tier states where the temperatures are higher the heat pump will be more economical 90 – 100% of the year vs. 60 % in the center tier states and 50% in the northern tier states. The heat pump water heater also offers fringe benefits. Removing the heat from the ambient air translates to cooling and with the cooling comes dehumidification. While saving money on heating your water you will also save on cooling and dehumidification costs.

AirGenerate when they designed the A7 AirTap designed a direct transfer system where there are no pumps involved lowering running costs and increasing reliability. Using the A7 AirTap kit that comes with everything you need for the installation except the tools, which are a 14” pipe wrench, a 12” adjustable wrench, and a level. The installation is relatively easy and will only take about an hour. The A7 Air Tap was rolled out in January 2008 and by December 2008 over 1,000 A7 AirTap Heat Pumps had been installed in 45 states. The A7 AirTap operates on 120-Volt AC 60HZ power and uses 12 amps. to start and 6 amps. to run. Operating the A7 AirTap at an ambient temperature of 68 Degrees F. it has an energy factor of 2.11, with an output of 7,000 BTU’s, with a first hour recovery rate of 43 gallons, with a water temperature of 135 Degrees F. and a 10 degree differential and has a noise level of 50db. The A7 AirTap weighs 48 Lbs. and measures 18” X 14” X 13” high. The AirGenerate A7 AirTap comes with a 3 year Limited Warranty upon purchase. The 1st Year of the Warranty includes Parts and Labor, while the 2^nd and 3^rd Year Warranty is Parts only.

The AirGenerate A7 Heat Pump retrofit kit is an excellent choice for people that have recently had a gas or, electric water heater installed and would like to upgrade the system to higher efficiency. To install the A7 AirTap the water heater and associated pipes should be in good condition.

The Ruud HP50RU Heat Pump Water Heater is scheduled to join the Ruud product line this fall. Ruud was founded by Edwin Ruud who invented the first automatic storage tank-type gas water heater while working for George Westinghouse in the 1880’s. The water heater went into production around 1889. Ruud later bought the rights to his invention from Westinghouse and in 1897 organized Ruud to produce water heaters. Today Ruud is a industry leader in water heating products for the home as well as for commercial and industrial applications. The Ruud HP50RU Heat Pump Water Heater is Energy Star approved making it eligible for Appliance Stimulus Program Rebates, Weatherization Assistance Program Grants if you are eligible, various State and Utility Rebate Programs in about 1/2 of the states, and a Federal Income Tax Credit. The time is never better to consider getting rid of the old water heater and start saving money.

Ruud HP50RU Heat Pump Water Heater

The Ruud HP50RU Heat Pump Water Heater features a heat pump mounted on top of the water heater that functions like a refrigerator in reverse. The heat pump takes warmth out of the ambient air surrounding the unit and pumps it into the water in your water heater much like a refrigerator takes warmth out of the refrigerator and pumps it into your home. The Ruud HP50RU Heat Pump Water Heater draws cold water from the bottom of the water heater circulates it through the heat pump heating the water, and then puts it back into the water heater at the top. The Ruud HP50RU has 3 operation modes, Energy Saver (heat pump), Normal (heat pump with element backup), and Electric Heat Only (two elements). This Energy Saver mode provides an industry leading 2.0 energy factor (EF) and a first hour delivery of 67 GPH which is comparable to a standard 50 gallon electric model. The heat pump will provide beneficial side effects also as it will assist in cooling the area where it is located and provide dehumidification as well. The estimated payback for installing a Ruud HP50RU is 3½ years.

The Ruud HP50RU Heat Pump Water Heater features include a 50 Gallon Model with a 10-Year Limited Warranty, 2-1/2″ Non-CFC foam insulation, resistored anode rod protection to extend tank life, a RuudGlas lined tank, factory installed T&P valve, brass drain valve, side access connections, 3/4″ NPT water inlet, outlet and condensate drain connections, 21″ diameter which fits through access doors, replaces a standard electric water heater, stainless steel resistor elements, heat pump operating range 40° F to 120° F, built in freeze/overheat protection, and a top mounted washable air filter.

This fall as a near perfect scenario of Appliance Stimulus Package Rebates, Weatherization Assistance Program Grants, State and Utility Rebates, and the Income Tax Credits can reduce the payback to even faster than the estimated 3½ years.