Any advice you give is much appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Devin & Kelly

Thanks a bunch; your response is disappointing but sadly not unexpected. Clearly I will move on to Plan B. Happy Valentine’s Day!

I’ve got it now! You need a shorter pop up assembly so the p-trap can go up higher and connect.
Unfortunately the Delta faucet came from a big box store and they used one of these (Click Here).
Your best bet is to pick up a new chrome plated brass Pop up Assembly making sure that it has a shorter installed height and use that instead. Those are quite a bit taller I believe.

Redwood

Let me try to re-explain the situation: the faucet I bought is a standard Delta home fixture – came with the pop-up drain included. I removed the old pop-up drain in the sink and slid the new one into place. When I took the old p-trap and slid it as high as it will go onto the pop-up drain, it cannot reach the exit pipe leading into the wall; it is short by about 1/4 – 1/2″. The nut on the pvc will not reach to tighten onto the p-trap.

So what are my options? Do I simply have a new pop-up drain that is too short for my sink? Or is there a piece of pvc sold that bridges the gap between pipes that can be of use in this situation? And finally, if there is such a piece, will it compromise the functionality of the p-trap as it will lengthen (in effect) the p-trap?

Hope this is a clearer explanation. Thanks again for your response!

If I understand you correctly the height of the pipe is correct but it is too short?
If this is the case a new p-trap may have a longer outlet tube that has not been cut to fit the old piping.
It is also possible to use and extension tube to make it longer but if the new trap would make it work I would go that route before creating an additional slip joint in the mix.

Redwood

Do they make an extension for between the p-trap and the wall pipe so that they can connect? Or would that compromise the performance of the p-trap?

Your help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Thank you for the quick response. Great tip to use an elbow, where the pipe comes out of the wall, to offset to one side. I have done some additional measuring and it appears that the center of the outlet hole in my disposer is only 1/4 inch higher, at most, than the center of the outlet at the wall.

I’m going to follow your recommendation to open the wall and install the drain lower to solve my problem.

Thanks again,
Al

That said, if the drain in the wall is too high I would recommend opening the wall and installing the drain lower rather than rigging the trap and risk the water level of the trap flooding the disposer where it will cause drain odors, poor drainage and a shortened service life of the disposer.

Thanks for posting,
Redwood

I was happy to come across this thread. I have a problem similiar to Dave M’s regarding the placement of the garbage disposal outlet after installation of a new sink.

I had a new countertop and sick basin installed. Now the drain hole in the sink is both lower and closer to the back wall. This new placement results in the outlet from my garbage disposal is only inches above the inlet for my new p-trap. Maybe 2 inches at most. This is the physical hole in the garbage disposal and not the end of the disposal drain pipe. This leaves little room after the bend in the garbage disposal outlet pipe. I may not have enought room to place a compression nut on the garbage disposal outlet where it meets the p trap inlet. If I could drop the p trap 2 additional inches, it would make life much easier to fit things together. But after reading this thread, it sounds like this is not a good idea.

I am also installing a new p trap because the old p trap outlet (90 degree connection) was directly underneath my new sink drain hole. The center of the garbage disposal needs to be in location. The drain pipe is horizontal to the floor as it goes into the wall. I have about 4 inches of drain pipe between the wall and the outlet connection of my new p trap. There is not a vent on this drain and the house is 10 years old.

Can you please provide some suggestions?

Thanks

That said I will now tell you that many people have house traps and do not have problems with them.
I recently did a job for a customer that had lived in the home for 50 years without a problem until recently.
I properly cleaned the house trap and he probably is good for another 50 years.

House traps when they have been installed for some time accumulate debris at the bottom of the trap and a sludge forms that eventually completely blocks or catches something that blocks the trap.
In this case the drain cleaner should push a spinning shake with a 3″ diameter blade on it through the trap to scrape the sludge off the trap walls and then vacuum the debris out of the trap with a wet/dry vac.

With you talking about the builder I’m guessing that your installation is newer and sludge buildup is not the problem.
A few things that may help is switching toilet paper brands to one that falls apart once it gets wet.
Some brands such as Cottonelle and Charmin are very thick and stay intact all the way to the septic tank without disintegrating. while other brands are more septic friendly and will probably disintegrate as they pass through the trapway of the toilet or a short distance down the drain pipe.

Another nemesis of house traps is the old grease down the drain…
Even if you are very good, small amounts of grease will emulsify with hot water and detergent while doing dishes and go down the drain. When the waste water containing the emulsified grease hits the cold water in the trap the grease immediately solidifies and floats across the top of the water sticking in place. Eventually the grease build up will clog the house trap. Of course grease in large quantities will clog the trap immediately.

Hopefully these tips will help you live with a house trap.
Of course if there is a mechanical problem with the house trap such as pitch problems, or, misalignments they should be corrected.

Here in areas where we are allowed to remove house traps we often find it to be a simple operation of just putting in a straight piece of pipe and perhaps a clean out where the house trap was connecting with shielded couplings like a Fernco Proflex, Mission coupling, or, No-Hub coupling.

Hopefully this information helps you out,
Redwood