There are a couple of possible causes for this to occur. Is the water tray filling to the proper level? If there is not enough water the toilet will have a weak flush and not clear the bowl properly.

The toilet may have an obstruction or, partial clog in the trapway that slows the flow of water out of the bowl causing a weak flush. You could have a plumber auger the toilet with a closet auger or, get a General or, Ridgid brand 3′ closet auger with a drop head and do it yourself. Those closet augers will cost about $40 but they do work compared to cheaper ones that at completely useless.

One way you can test is to put about 1 1/2 gallons of water in a bucket and pour the water into the toilet bowl as fast as you can. If the toilet flushes when you use the bucket the problem is the amount of water going to the bowl and the speed at which it gets there. If the toilet does not flush using the bucket then the trapway is obstructed. Has this toilet always been flushing badly or, is this a recent occurrence? Sometimes a bad installation can cause flushing problems too.

I hope this helps you,
Redwood

It is hard for me to say whether you can do that or, not. You should probably talk to a local plumber about this because here it would not be a good idea to run water supplies through the attic. The water supply lines in an attic would freeze in the winter and burst, so attics and outside walls are no go for us. A local plumber would know if you can safely do it in your area, in many places only slightly warmer than here, water supply lines can be plumbed right against the sheet rock of the ceiling with insulation piled on top. Based on your ISP I can see approximately where you are and it is too close for me to call from my armchair. If you were on SoCal I would say have at it.

Also the stainless braided tubing by code cannot be used going through walls and ceilings. The water must be piped over to the new location. If there is a bathroom or, laundry area on the other side of the wall from where you are planning to move the refrigerator the supply can come from there. Have you looked at the Sioux Chief OX-Box? They make a very nice outlet box and valve for ice-maker lines which can be installed behind the refrigerator.

I hope this helps you out,
Redwood

Good to hear the leak has stopped. No leaks is a good thing.

Glad 411Plumb could help,
Redwood

I sorry to hear that your home is suffering from bad venting.

You situation getting people involved is difficult. Many plumbers shy away from involvement both with repairing bad work and getting involved with the courts in cases involving bad plumbing. For a plumber to get involved with repairs to a bad system there is to some degree a fear of what they cannot see and assuming liability for that work. Testifying in court cases is also difficult because although the plumber may be an expert the subject they are testifying about may not be understood by the ones asking the questions and making judgment. It is also time consuming and keeps the plumber away from other work. To some degree there is a reluctance among plumbers to get involved with bashing another plumbers work.

Your Lawyer should be able to find plumbers that specialize in being an expert witness for your case. You may also have to enter into an agreement with the plumber that does the repair work carefully spelling out what he is doing and what aspects of the work he is assuming liability for.

Sadly the time for not having this problem is long past. Making sure that all work was done by licensed contractors and that all work done was done with permits and inspections, would have gone a long way in preventing the problem.

I wish you luck in finding resolution,
Redwood

Don’t blame us plumbers for writing the directions!
You are now more qualified to write the directions than the English Major that wrote them.

You are absolutely correct the the Teflon paste lubricates as well as seals.
It makes all the difference in a successful installation.

I’m glad you had success and 411plumb could help,
Redwood

Everything drains fine but the problem is with the venting. When the sump pumps out sewage, it pulls the traps in the upstairs bathroom, the toilet bubbles and the water level goes way down, the bathtub and sink gurgle and needs to have water added 2 to 3 times a week. The entire house is vented though 1-2 inch pipe on the lower roof level. The plumbing was passed before the 2nd floor sink was installed, and when it was installed it was above the vent level so they used a Studor Vent, which is not code her in BC Canada. I am going to court and have found this entire process of leaning the plumping and sump needs interesting. I however have never been able to find trades people to supply estimates to correct this problem. I need to vent to sewage ejection pit on it’s own vent to the roof, I also need to vent the upstairs sink (at least) to the higher roof level to vent the sink.
The house had a stack that ran outside the was and all vented well before I let the boozo contractor loose in my house. He used a vent to a 10 ft lower roof, and I can not even go on vacation without coming home to sewer gasses as the renters continue to use the basement plumbing in their suite and the pump pulls the taps in my 2nd floor bathroom.

Now all I need is someone to return my calls, plumber, city, original plumber etc etc.

Nice to vent mmm.. good word for this situation,
Bev