The first step in rebuilding the faucet is to shut off the water to the faucet then remove the handle. If you have the parts diagram you should consult that to see how the handle is attached and remove it accordingly. If you do not have the parts diagram you will need to figure out how the handle is attached. There may be a button covering the screw or a plug covering a access hole for the screw, some may even just pull off with a sharp tug, you will have to carefully examine the handle to determine how it comes apart. Some are pretty difficult with a small hole that you have to stick a screwdriver or allen wrench into in order to loosen a screw that secures the handle in place, often the handle has to be turned partially on before the screw can even become accessible.

Once the handle has been removed there are often some additional parts that have to be removed to access the water shutoff mechanism whether it is a cartridge or, a ball to remove it. Some will have parts that just slide off, others will have parts that unscrew without a diagram you will have to rely on your mechanical ability to guide you on how the parts come off. (A word of caution to people who are attempting to repair a Delta tub/shower faucet many Delta models have the valve in two sections that are connected by three small tubes. If you attempt to remove the bonnet nut and turn it too hard you can tear the tubes apart and ruin the valve.) Sometimes there is a nut that holds the cartridge or, in the case of Delta style kitchen sink faucets and some Delta style tub/shower faucets hold the ball in place, on Moen faucets there is a clip which secures the cartridge in place, other brands such as American Standard have screws holding the cartridge in place. In most cases the parts simply lift out while in others like the Moen you need to use a special cartridge removal tool to turn the cartridge to break it free then pull it out.

On kitchen faucets if there is leakage coming out from under the faucet spout the O-Rings under the spout are bad and need replacement. When I repair a kitchen faucet I replace the O-Rings and lubricate them with plumbers grease to prevent leaks and keep the spout moving easily. Once everything holding the spout down has been taken off the spout pulls off by pulling upward and turning the spout from side to side. Looking up the O-Ring size on the parts diagram is best but you can also take the existing O-Rings to match them.

Once you remove the cartridge or, in the case of many of the Delta style faucets the ball, rubber seats and springs along with the cam and packing you are ready to get the parts you need to rebuild the faucet. Many hardware stores, plumbing supply houses, and home centers will have a selection of cartridges you can match up, and everyone should have the parts for the Delta ball type faucet. If you cannot find a cartridge that matches your faucet Alfano Plumbing Parts has an excellent on-line catalog that you can look through to compare against your cartridge.

Once you have obtained the parts, assembly is pretty much just a reverse of how you pulled the faucet apart. Cartridges like the Moen that slide into a bore and seal with O-Rings should be lubricated with plumbers grease. The Delta ball and some cartridges have indexing pins that need to be lined up properly when reassembling. One of the things I have found helpful is when pulling things apart laying them out in order of assembly is often helpful on more complex faucets. On some of the older Delta ball style faucets there is a screw in the center of the cap that has to be adjusted for the correct pressure on the cam and packing. If the cam and packing are too loose water will leak up through the top around the ball and the faucet may not shut off properly. If the cam and packing adjustment is too tight the handle will be hard to move and the packing will have accelerated wear.

Pressure Balanced Anti-Scald Valves

Pressure balanced anti-scald valves operate very similar to the conventional valve we have been using forever where you open or, close the hot and cold valves to regulate the temperature to one where you are comfortable. The new pressure balanced valves still operate in that same manner but with a single handle controlling the temperature. Initially when you turn on the valve it flows fully open cold then as you continue to turn the valve the hot water is introduced in a low amount and the cold is gradually decreased. As you continue to turn the valve you get more and more hot water and less cold until you reach the desired setting. Continuing to turn the handle you should reach a limit stop which is set at the safe maximum temperature and you cannot select the water temperature to be any higher. The difference with pressure balanced valves is that once you select a temperature the water temperature should remain very close to the temperature you selected even if someone else in the house used a large volume of water such as filling a washing machine or turning on a dishwasher. A pressure-balancing valve will detect the loss of pressure on either the hot or cold and move to limit the water on the other side matching the pressures to maintain a nearly constant temperature at your setting. Most pressure-balanced valve will maintain a steady temperature with in about plus or, minus three-degrees F of where you set the temperature. You may notice a slight decrease in flow sometimes when the pressure-balancing valve is doing its job. The Moen Posi-Temp, Moen-Trol, Symmons Temptrol, and many of the Delta tub and shower valves being popular choices for pressure balanced valves. Prices for decent brand name pressure balanced valves start as low as just under $100.

Thermostatic Anti-Scald Valves

Thermostatic anti-scald valves operate quite differently from the pressure-balanced valves. The thermostatic valves function involves an active sensing mechanism that detects the water temperature and constantly closes or, opens the hot and cold supplies to maintain a constant set temperature. Usually thermostatic valves have two knobs one of which turns on the water and controls the flow volume, and the other, which adjusts the temperature setting. Many times the temperature selection knob will even have the settings labeled in degrees. This gives you the ability to set the temperature where you like it and never have to touch it again year round your shower will always be the same temperature. Thermostatic valves will often maintain a temperature of plus or, minus one-degree F. Clearly the performance and features of thermostatic anti-scald valves are a higher level of performance than pressure balanced valve and with that comes a higher price tag often in the $300 range for the lower priced ones. Some of the popular brands include the Moen Exact-Temp, the Delta R-10000 valve body with the thermostatic cartridge option, Grohe and a number of others.

All of the Anti-Scald Valves should be considered when the old tub/shower valve either need replacing or, repairing as they afford a level of safety and comfort that your old valve cannot possibly match.

Another common cause of aerators that started in recent years was defective plastic dip tubes that were installed in many makes and models of water heaters between August 1993 and October 1996. Perfection Corporation supplied plastic dip tubes for many of the water heater companies as a component, that was defective resulting in a Class Action Lawsuit which is now past. The dip tubes broke down into small pieces, which are white or, whitish grey often-clogging aerators, washing machine inlet screens, showerheads, and other restrictions where the debris could catch. You can check the debris to see if it is a dip tube problem by soaking the debris in vinegar and see if it breaks down in the vinegar or, not. If the debris does not break down chances are that the debris is not minerals but is a dip tube problem. Researching your water heater serial number you probably will find your water heater on the list of water heaters with the defective dip tube. The remedy in this case with the newest water heater with the defective tube being 13 years old at the time this article was published is probably best to just replace the water heater with a new one. The water heater would be close to the end of its expected service life.

To clean the aerator simply unscrew the aerator from the faucet, once the aerator is off the faucet run the water to flush out the faucet with any debris which might be remaining coming out. Take the aerator apart keeping the parts in order of assembly so you will be able to reassemble the parts then clean out any debris in the aerator. Usually a sharp pointed tool can pick any debris caught in the restrictor and make sure the holes are all clear. The screens usually rinse clean or, may need a finger rubbing across them to clean them. Then reassemble the parts in order putting them all back together. Then screw the aerator back onto the faucet and test for proper operation. In cases where the aerator has a severe build up of minerals from hard water you can soak the aerator over night in vinegar or CLR to remove the mineral build up then reinstall the aerator on the faucet. Aerators are very inexpensive and can be replaced as well.

The Moen part # 1225 plastic cartridge and the #1200 brass cartridge are interchangeable with plastic being the better choice in hard water conditions. Use a silicone based (non-petroleum) plumber’s grease to lubricate the rubber seals and o-rings on the cartridge then insert the cartridge into the bore and replace the retaining ring and stop tube or retainer nut. Put the handle on, turn the water supply back on, and test the faucet for proper operation. If the turning of the handle for hot and cold is reversed then take the handle back off. Turn the center stem of the cartridge 180-degrees and put the handle back on. The handle direction for hot and cold selection should now be correct.

To repair a single handle sink valve will in most cases require a Delta #RP61 cam and packing, #RP70 ball, and a #RP4993 seat and spring kit. You will need an Allen Wrench to remove the handle, an Adjustable Wrench to remove the cap, a hook pick to remove the rubber seats and springs, and you will also want a small Phillips Screwdriver to help insert the seat and springs in place. Shut off water to the faucet you are repairing and verify the water is off. Place a rag over the drain to prevent parts from falling in the drain. Use the Allen Wrench to loosen the setscrew holding the handle on. After removing the handle use the Adjustable Wrench to remove the Cap from the valve. Take off the cam and packing then lift the ball out of the valve body. Note how the ball is located in place by a pin on the valve body and a slot in the ball. Take care not to damage the pin as it may ruin the faucet. After the ball is removed you can see down into the valve body where the seats and springs are located. Use a Hook Pick to pull out the seats and springs. You should then slid the new seat and spring onto the shaft of the Phillips Screwdriver so they are facing in the right direction that they can slide off the Screwdriver shaft into place. Holding the seat and spring in place on the Screwdriver shaft with your forefinger place the Screwdriver into the hole where the seat and spring go pushing them into place with your finger tip doing this with both the hot and cold seats. Put the ball in place lined up on the pin place the cam and packing on top of the ball with the locator tab in the slot on the side of the valve body. Place the cap back on and thread it in place securing it by tightening with the adjustable wrench. Then adjust the packing adjustment nut. Put the handle back in place securing it by tightening the setscrew onto the flat portion of the ball stem. Turn on the water supply and test the faucet.

To repair a two handle Delta faucet you will in most case need two each Delta #RP1740 or, #RP24096 stems and #RP4993 seats and springs. You will also need a Phillips Screwdriver, Adjustable Wrench, Knife, Plumbers Grease and a Hook Pick for tools. Cover the drain with a rag to prevent parts from falling in the drain. Use a Knife to pry off the caps on the top of the handles. After removing the caps use the Phillips Screwdriver to unscrew the screws holding the handles on and remove the handles. Look at the existing stems under the handle and note the location of the triangular handle stop sticking upward from the stem above the nut. You want to make sure the stops end up in the same location as they presently are, because if the orientation is switched the handles will operate in reverse. I usually take them out and place them on each side facing in the correct direction. Using the adjustable wrench unscrew the bonnet nut then grasp the stem and pull it out of the valve body. This exposes the seat and spring so they can be pulled out with the pick. You can then use the screwdriver to load the new seat and spring into place you probably will not fit a finger into this hole so find something to push them down into place. Apply Plumbers Grease to the o-ring on the new stem and push it into place making sure the stop is orientated correctly. When it is fully seated screw down the bonnet nut, replace the handle, screwing down the handle and replacing the cap. Repeat for the other side and then turn the water back on and test for leaks and proper operation.

Problems in the faucet after the water is mixed may include things like debris in the aerator, a bad cartridge on single lever or, handle faucets, side sprayer diverters on kitchen sink faucets, and on tub/shower mixers loose washers on the shower diverter valve or, debris caught in the restrictor for the showerhead. Basically troubleshooting would involve taking things apart and looking for the problem and sometimes flushing the faucet out with things like the aerator or, showerhead removed.

When the sound is on a single temperature in most cases you can eliminate the area where water is mixed. Instead you can concentrate on the side where the problem exists. On faucets where a single lever or, handle is used the problem can still be a bad cartridge, while on faucets with two handles you can go right to the side causing the problem. Shut off the water and remove the stem. Look for things like a loose or, deteriorated washer or, a badly worn stem. If the problem is on the hot side and your water is extremely hot sometimes the extreme heat can soften a faucet washer. Extreme heat can also affect rubber parts down stream from where the water mixes such as the diverter on a kitchen faucet. You may also have to chase single temperature noise problems further down the supply side including the stop valves and their washers and the supply lines and pipes.

Unusually high velocities can also make a whistling noise. This can be caused by high pressure being supplied to your home. The pressure should be less than 80-psi and can often be measured with an inexpensive gauge, which can screw onto a hose bibb. I like to use gauges that have a lazy hand, which will record the highest pressure reached as long at it is attached and water is turned on to the gauge. If the pressure is over 80-psi a pressure-reducing valve should be installed and in most cases thermal expansion tank would be required to be installed on your water heater too. Sometimes pipes may have restrictions, which can cause noise such as a build up of scale or, rust in the case of galvanized pipes.

Finding the source of your whistling noise in the faucet is not always an easy task and in some cases like with the cartridges may require replacement without even knowing for sure that it is the problem. It often comes down to I’ve checked every thing else lets try this.

Determining the brand of your faucet once you have gone beyond the obvious visual or, operating characteristics shutting the water off and disassembling the faucet is probably the best way. Pulling the stem or, cartridge out then attempting to match the stem or, cartridge to a picture. Plumbers often carry several books in their trucks that have pictures for identifying stems or, cartridges. Quite a few can be found on the web, or at places that sell replacement stems and cartridges such as plumbing supply houses, hardware stores, and home supply centers such as Ace Hardware, Home Depot, and Lowe’s. In many cases if you have a less common difficult to match stem or, cartridge the place you go to will be happy to refer you to a store or, supply house in the area that has a more extensive selection. Stems and cartridges are a niche market and while many stores will carry a selection of the most commonly sold stems and cartridges there is always one supplier that is above and beyond the others that they typically refer people to when they don’t have an item. These stores typically have a more knowledgeable staff and even if they don’t stock it will usually have catalogs and be able to order the parts you need.

Finding the brand of your faucet is not always easy especially when you are looking for one where the manufacturer has gone out of business or, the faucet was a very limited production like a designer faucet but getting down to stem matching is often the best way as many designer faucets are based on a more commonly used base faucet which can at least get you some of the parts you may need. Sometimes you may not find a match but you will find a manufacturer that has several stems and cartridges that are very close in design when this happens you might try contacting that manufacturer and send them a picture to see if it is one of theirs. They may have an answer for you or, be able to steer you in the right direction. Another place you can try is joining an on-line plumbing forum such as Terry Love’s Plumbing Forum and posting a picture of the faucet, and stem or, cartridge asking for help with identifying the faucet. These forums typically have a large number of people that are plumbers and avid do it yourself members that may have seen your faucet and be able to offer you help in identifying your faucet brand.

One thing to consider when faced with a hard to identify faucet is the quality of the faucet and it’s condition. When you are presented with a cheaply made faucet or, one on poor condition it may be better just to replace it without wasting a lot of time.

Toto EcoPower offers a unique sensor line that uses the flow of water through the device to spin a turbine while the water is flowing to generate power which not only powers the device while it is being used but also charges a capacitor which runs the sensor between uses saving the back up battery from being used. Just 10 faucet uses per day will allow the back up battery to last up to 19 years. The long battery life will help to keep batteries out of the waste stream lowering amounts of cadmium and mercury in addition to saving water by only running water when it is being used.

Toto EcoPower Flushometer

Toto EcoPower Faucets are attractive and come in 28 models suitable for commercial use ranging in price from $684 – $1754 MSRP. Toto EcoPower Faucets feature ADA Compliant designs, one of the smallest infrared sensors in the world, good looking designs, available in six different styles and 28 models, self-setting detection range, spout senses users accurately, infrared sensors in the tip of the spout hidden away from vandals, single supply and thermal mixing models, laminar flow aerators, and thermostatic models that precisely temper water and regulate its flow.

Toto EcoPower Flushometers are attractive coming in 32 models for commercial use both concealed and exposed ranging in price from $637 – $900 MSRP. The Toto EcoPower Flushometers feature a piston valve for greater reliability than a diaphragm valve with a screen to keep debris out reducing common flushometer problems such as running on and flooding. Battery life is 10 years with 2,000 cycles per month. The Toto EcoPower Flushometers are available in 1.6, 1.28, 1.0 and 0.5 gallon per flush models. Toto EcoPower Flushometers have models with a courtesy flush button available and even have a automatic flush once every 24 hours when they haven’t been used to keep the bowl fresh and clean.

Toto is a cut above the rest! Contact a Toto Dealer today to get Toto EcoPower Faucets and Flushometers in your building.