American Standard Kitchen Faucet Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

Troubleshooting and Repairing American Standard Single Handle Kitchen Faucets is no different from any other kitchen faucet. You have to inspect the faucet and determine which portions of the faucet are leaking and or, not working properly.

Once you know what is wrong with your American Standard Kitchen Faucet you can then replace the parts that are leaking and not working properly. Going to the American Standard website and downloading the parts diagram for your faucet is always a good idea so you can see how the parts are put together and find the part numbers of all the parts you will need.

With American Standard Kitchen Faucets they use a cartridge to control the water flow and any problems with dripping or, not shutting off is surely the cartridge needing replacement. I like to remove the handle by loosening the setscrew that is accessed through a hole in the rear of the faucet. The handle will then slide off and the cap below the handle can then be removed. This will allow a visual inspection of the cartridge for leakage and you can operate the cartridge with your fingers while checking operation. Any leakage from the cartridge or, not shutting off is an indicator the cartridge requires replacement there are no repairable parts in the cartridge. The cartridge is held in place by 3 screws and should be replaced with a matching cartridge.

Leaking from under the spout indicated the o-rings under the spout require replacement. No flow is usually an indicator of debris clogging the aerator but if the flow does not improve with the aerator removed and the faucet has a side sprayer check the side spray for water flow. If water flow is present at the side sprayer then the diverter is stuck and requires replacement. The diverter is located at the rear of the valve body and can be seen when the spout is pulled off.

As always when you consider that many American Standard Kitchen Faucets retail at home centers like Home Depot and Lowe’s for less than $80 you should always consider the price of the model you have before expending a lot of time and money on parts attempting to fix the faucet.

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7 comments on “American Standard Kitchen Faucet Troubleshooting & Repair Guide
  1. Andrew Harris says:

    Can you tell me how to tell the difference between leaking from the spout o-rings and leaking from the cartridge. Would you replace the o-rings and the cartridge at the same time if it is leaking from spout area? I would have to remove the cartridge in order to remove the spout to get to the O-rings, there-by disturbing the seals on the bottom of the cartridge. How often and how fast do these parts actully wear out? I am dealing with over 100 apartments that have these faucets in them.


    • Redwood says:

      Hi Andrew,
      It pretty much involves removing the handle and disassembling the faucet as far as you can yet still operate it to see where the water is leaking from. Some models are easier than others to see. I feel for you having over 100 apartments with these faucets in them. They are not my #1 choice for a faucet brand.

      • Andrew Harris says:

        Hi Redwood,
        I tend to agree with you about a choice of faucets. I have been replacing o-rings and cartridges quite a bit. The cartridge does not look rebuildable so it goes, then 27.00 later, the faucet has a new cartridge and seals. It always leaks around the spout area and sometimes it leaks enough of the residents wait so long to put a work order in then the water seeps around the faucet and into the floor of the cabinet, and you know what water does to cheap chip board? sheesh!!!! I hate these faucets.


  2. Truth says:

    American Standard and other makers of ‘CARTRIDGES’ are just ripoffs.

    Don’t buy the cartridge type faucets. You will regret it.

    The old type with open internals so they’re easy to repair and rebuild are way better.

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Truth,
      Yea I agree with you, the old style faucets with the rubber washers and seats were “So much easier to repair.” As long as it was a simple washer replacement and the stems and seats weren’t eroded so badly they had to be replaced. Simply lube the stem with grease, adjust the packing nut, replace the washer, sand the seat a little to smooth it out, repeat for the other side, and the faucet was good to go until next time or, until someone cranked it shut real hard and tore up the new washer.

      But, when the stems or, seats required replacement, the repair job suddenly became one that separated the men from the boys. You had to pull the stem and seat out, identify the manufacturer and parts by comparing them to thousands of pictures in several thick replacement parts catalogs, then run around to several supply houses hoping someone had them in stock or, order them to return to repair it another day. The best part was returning with $100 worth of oddball special ordered stems and seats and installing them then discovering that water was leaking past the threads of the seat and the faucet was dripping still. You get that great feeling of there goes 3+ hours and $100 in parts invested in a job that didn’t work out and now I’m switching to selling the customer a new faucet.

      Those cartridges are such a Rip-Off, taking the handle off, removing a clip, retaining nut or, a couple of screws, then pulling out the cartridge, getting the new one from several of the most popular ones that you have on the truck and putting the new one in. Every once in a while you come across an oddball one that you actually have to identify the maker and model of the faucet and go pick one up. Even rarer is the one that you have to order. Then putting in the new parts and having the repair work, every time, Priceless!

      It’s even better when you are talking about a tub/shower mixer and you want consistent water temperatures throughout your shower. Many of those “Rip-Off” cartridges have pressure balancing valves built into them so the water temperature stays within 3 Degrees F even when someone flushes the toilet or starts a washing machine load while you are in the shower. Yea I miss the “Good Old Days” walking 5 miles to school in the snow uphill both ways.


  3. Clara says:

    I received the ceramic cartridge for my kitchen faucet repair. I am trying to get the original screws back in. It was hard to do, but at last two of them are in, loosely. The third is not as easy and I can’t get it to screw in. I am sure it isn’t stripped. It must be the angle??? Help!

    Do I get another screw or have someone else try it?


    • Redwood says:

      Hi Clara,
      It’s hard to say without being there, but the most important thing is to make sure the screwdriver fits the head of the screw properly. If the screwdriver is too large it will not fit all the way in to the head of the screw or, if it is too small it will fit sloppily into the head of the screw. Either way a poor fit will cause the screwdriver to slip and strip out the slot(s) in the head of the screw before adequate torque is applied to tighten the screw.

      When putting the screws back in, it is very important to make sure they are started in straight and they are not cross threaded damaging the threads of the screw and faucet. In difficult locations often the screw can be held on/against the tip of a screwdriver with single finger when placing it into the hole. It is a good idea if water has filled the screw hole to blow it out before inserting the screw. A dab of grease on the threads of the screw will aid in tightening the screw and removing it again in the future. If the head or, threads of the screw have been damaged in any way the screw should be replaced, since the screw is in a location where it may get wet a brass or, stainless steel screw should be used. Also make certain the the size and number of threads per inch are matched exactly, these smaller sized screws are very close in appearance, and incorrect sizing will damage the threads of the faucet.

      You might also let someone else try it for you.

      I hope this helps,

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