American Standard Champion Toilet Leak Repairs

American Standard Champion Toilet leaks have been an ongoing problem for them since their initial introduction as the toilet that would flush two dozen golf balls in a single flush. American Standard was right about the toilets flushing ability, the flush was a fantastic improvement over their older line of 1.6 gallon per flush toilets, many of which had MaP Report results listed of flushing only 200 grams of solids or, less per flush. Consumer Reports even gave the American Standard Champion their Best Buy Rating as the top rated toilet. However, for many Am. Std. Champion 1 owners, the excitement of having a good flushing toilet that didn’t need to have a plunger living next to it, was short lived when they discovered their Champion 1 was pouring hundreds of gallons of water down the drain because the “Accelerator” flush valve was leaking. The good news is that since American Standard has come out with the Champion 4 model line, there is now a decent repair, that probably won’t leak, and is easily fixed with commonly available parts that don’t have to be sent by the manufacturer after the initial upgrade of your toilet to the Champion 4 style flush valve, referred to as the Flowise Flush Valve used on other toilets in the American Standard line including the highly successful Cadet 3 Toilet.

American Standard Old Style Champion Flush TowerWhen the Am. Std. Champion owner opened the tank lid to see why their toilet was leaking they found and unusual mechanism called a flush tower that was unlike anything ever seen on a toilet before. Many manufacturers have used the flush tower type design including the highly successful Mansfield toilets, the present Kohler Class 5 & Class 6, and some older American Standard models use a canister valve which which is similar in function to the flush tower. The American Standard Accelerator Flush Valve was a remarkable departure for these other designs with a complex release mechanism under the cap on the top consisting of magnet latches & springs which would release the tower when the handle was held allowing it to close at the end of the flush. As more customers experienced leaks the complaints rapidly climbed, and American Standard implemented several design changes to combat the leakage problems, culminating with the usage of the Flowise Flush Valve which, is available free of charge through American Standard under the 10 year warranty, a class action lawsuit was denied in the New Jersey courts.

American Standard Champion 4 Upgrade Flush ValveThe repair of a leaking American Standard Champion Toilet with the Flush Tower Style Valve is fairly simple. First call American Standard at 1-800-442-1902 to have them send you the new Flowise flush valve. Once the new flush valve is on hand the toilet tank will need to be removed from the bowl in order to replace the valve. If you are uncomfortable with doing this repair you could call a plumber to replace the valve but I would make sure that you have the new valve on hand first to avoid wasting the plumber’s time and additional charges for 2nd trips.

American Standard Champion Upgrade Toilet Tank HardwareTo remove the tank from the bowl, the first step is to shut off the water supply to the toilet at the stop valve usually located under the left side of the toilet tank, either coming out of the wall or, up through the floor. Once the water is shut off flush the toilet, then remove the tank lid, and place it in a safe spot where the lid will not fall and break, as replacement tank lids can be quite expensive. After removing the lid reach into the tank and lift the flush tower by hand to allow as much of the water as possible to drain from the tank into the bowl. Use a large sponge to soak up the remaining water in the tank while wringing out the sponge into the bowl until the tank is dry.

1/2" Deep Socket Needed For American Standard Champion Tank BoltsThe next step is to disconnect the supply line from the fill valve and stop valve. A small amount of water will spill out when this is disconnected which can be caught with either a container placed under the valve or, a cotton rag. The supply line will need to be replaced as they are designed with seals for a one time use, I highly recommend using a flexible braided stainless steel supply line, as the Am. Std. Champion design of the tank to bowl connection allows a considerable amount of movement of the tank, which will break the seal on a rigid supply line. Make sure that you do not buy the Watts FloodSafe style braided stainless steel toilet supply as they have had a considerable amount of problems involving nuisance trips and failures resulting in considerable water damage.

After disconnecting the closet supply, the next step is to remove the tank from the bowl. To do this you will find the nuts for the tank to bowl bolts are recessed quite deeply into the bottom side of the bowl under the tank, so you will need either the tool that American Standard supplied originally with the toilet when new or, a 1/2” deep socket to reach up into the recess over the screw onto the nut, and a large straight blade screwdriver for the screw in the tank. Remove the nuts from both screws while being careful not to allow the tank to fall and break. Once the nuts are removed, lift the tank off the bowl, and place the tank in a safe place where you can work on it.

Remove The Old Style American Standard Flush TowerThe next step is to remove the old tank to bowl screws and sealing washers from the tank, then remove the tank to bowl gasket off the bottom of the flush valve on the underside of the tank, which will reveal the large nut securing the flush valve in place. Inside the tank disconnect the chain from the handle to avoid breaking the handle when removing the flush valve. You may then remove the large nut securing the flush valve in place and slide the flush valve up out of the hole. Then clean the inside of the tank where the new flush valve gasket and seals for the tank to bowl bolts will land.

New American Standard Champion Flush Valve Properly OrientatedTake the new Flowise Flush Valve and place it in the tank through the hole in the bottom. Make sure the flush valve is properly turned so the overflow tube and chain are properly positioned, with the overflow to the rear of the tank where it will not interfere with the handle and chain, and the chain is in a position where the chain is properly angled, and will reach the handle. While holding the flush valve in the proper position place the large nut on the flush valve on the bottom side of the tank, and tighten the nut.

American Standard Champion Flush Valve NutOnce the large nut on the flush valve is tightened place the new tank to bowl bolts and seals through the holes in the tank where they belong, and place the new tank to bowl gasket over the bottom of the flush valve and the flush valve nut so the gasket is properly positioned. You are now finished with the tank and it is ready to go back onto the bowl.

American Standard Champion Tank To Bowl Gasket In PlaceWhile the tank is off the bowl take the time to clean off the top of the bowl where the tank will land. Hopefully you wont have access to do this again for a long time. Once the bowl is cleaned carefully take the tank and carry it back to the bathroom where you can carefully line up the tank to bowl screws and the tank to bowl gasket with the holes in the bowl while lowering the tank into position. Be careful to hold the tank in position without letting it fall and break while you use either the tool provided for the initial installation or the 1/2” deep socket to get the nuts started on the tank to bowl bolts securing the tank in place. Once both screws are started use the large screwdriver and the deep socket tightening the screws alternately and evenly until the tank is tightened down and secured in place. The Champion toilet has a considerable amount of movement allowing the tank to rock and you will not be able to tighten the tank to bowl connection enough to stop the rocking without breaking the tank or the bowl from over-tightening.

Tank To Bowl Bolts and Sealing WashersOnce the tank is secured in place you may then attach the chain to the handle inside the tank with a slight amount of slack which allows the flapper to seat properly. Then take your new braided stainless steel closet supply and secure it onto the stop valve first then onto the bottom of the fill valve. Avoid using a supply line that is too short as the stretching and tank movement can cause failure and leaking. It is far better to have a longer line and a loop as long as it will not result in kinking than to have one that is too short and is stretched.

Finished Upgrade To American Standard Champion 4 ToiletOnce the the chain is on and the supply line is connected you are now ready to turn on the water and check the toilet for function and leaks. Turn on the water and observe the stop valve, supply connections, and tank to bowl connections for any leaks. If any are observed turn the water back off and repair any leaks found. Flush the toilet and observe the flapper for proper operation and check for any leaks again at the tank to bowl connection. If any leaks happen only while flushing they would be caused by the tank to bowl gasket not seating properly. The chain may require adjustment to ensure the flapper fully opens for a brief period while flushing then properly closes without leakage. Once all leak tests and function tests are passed the toilet is ready for use.

With this repair accomplished the toilet should be problem free or, at least pretty easy to fix again if it starts leaking again. In some areas of the country the seal used on the replacement flapper has had the rubber react badly with the chemicals used by water suppliers to keep the drinking water safe for use. Chlorine and Chloramines have in some cases caused the rubber used on the flapper seal on the Flowise Flush Valve to blister and leak. Replacing the flapper with a Korky # 3040BP flapper which is available at many locations will provide a long lasting repair with a much better resistance to Chlorine & Chloramines than the OEM flapper seal.

Posted in How To Plumbing Tips, Toilet Repairs Tagged with: , , , , , , , , , , , ,
24 comments on “American Standard Champion Toilet Leak Repairs
  1. Wes Craft says:

    I was just on the line with Am Standard and the CS rep told me that there was never a class action lawsuit but that “like any company they improve and change their design over time.” She said that they replace any faulty flush valve within the 10 year warranty period and the replacement for that valve is currently that Champion 4 styled one. Unfortunately they require a receipt to replace which was the catch. The rep said a majority of these were sold 12 years ago. Now to find that receipt.

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Wes.
      The Class Action was denied by the New Jersey Courts in 2010 you can click here to read the case, I’ve updated the article with that. The Champion 1, 2, and 3, were all lemons, finally they have it almost right on the Champion 4. If you have any problems finding the receipt or, if the toilet is out of warranty I’ve added the parts you will need to the page so they can be purchased from Amazon, so you don’t have to go through the ordeal on the phone again.

  2. JimmieB says:

    Bought new Champion 4 from Home Depot in 2014. 15 months later the dreaded ghost flush or leak is happening. Read the reviews and called AS. They sent the entire flush valve to me even though I just asked for the blue seal. (They must know something) I just replaced the blue seal and it still leaks. I guess I will go ahead and now replace the whole valve which is a much bigger job. I thought the seal would work since the old one was all blistered and bubbled around the edges. Any thoughts on this?

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Jimmy,
      Am Std has had some blistering problems with their blue rubber, usually replacement of the seal does the trick. Some of the people here have reported the screw where the chain attaches to the flapper being loose and causing a leak, you might try that before you go replacing the whole valve. I’ve had decent luck with the Korky Red Seals I just added to the ads on the page, the rubber Korky uses doesn’t seem to blister like the blue rubber ones from Am Std.

  3. Lime says:

    Hi I’m sorry but I’m putting my second champ 4 together an have the same problem the front China touches but the rear is not an the tank can be pushed to the wall. Now I read the instructions an it reads front an rear need to touch China to China.. I tried to do this on my first tank an it cracked.. then 6 months later broke, why am I having a hard time tightening this down ,an I don’t want to crack this tank..any ideas?

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Lime,
      In my opinion the Champion toilets are among the hardest toilets to attach the tank to the bowl I’ve done. I alternate from side to side equally as I tighten the bolts, and as it gets harder to tighten I press the tank downward against the bowl with my forearm as I tighten the bolts. As you draw it tight look at the gap between the two pieces of china to see which side needs additional tightening. As soon as contact is made, stop tightening or, it will break as you have already found out.

      Good Luck,

  4. Brenda Faulk says:

    I have contacted you two times about my repair kit for the 3 toilets. You made us dig up the information on when the house was built to prove that it was within warranty. We did that. When you talked on the phone you told me it is on the way. 3 weeks later no parts!!! Please send the parts. Thank you desperate x3 toilets.

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Brenda,
      We at 411Plumb are not related in any way to American Standard, You will need to contact them at the number listed in the article above. I’m sorry to hear that you are having so many problems and such a long wait on getting replacement parts for American Standard’s Defective Toilet.

  5. Les says:

    Can the orange seals on the original white plastic tower be replaced/obtained? Lot easier to replace that rather than going through the hassle of having to change out the entire setup.

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Les,
      I’m not sure if they still are, in any case due to the problematic nature of the flush tower, I’d stick with the advice to replace it. There is a reason for the class action and issuance of the replacement flush valve.

  6. Tom says:

    I have found another source of leak in these Champion 4 toilets. The flush valve chain connects to the top of the flush valve assembly and there is a black plastic nut that is used to screw the green plastic dome into place. If this is unscrewed there is an O-ring that develops flat spots and leaks water from the tank into the bowl. A simple experiment can confirm this. If the toilet bowl is cleared of water and the the tank is filled above the flush valve dome and leaks appear in the bowl, the two sources of leaks are the flapper and the o-ring. Further experiments can be done to prove which is leaking but my advice is to replace the flapper and o-ring. The Corky flapper does not package the O-ring with the flapper.

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Tom,
      You can’t make this stuff up, can you? No doubt that will be something they fix on the Champion 5 Toilets. Maybe.
      Thanks for the heads up on yet another problem.

  7. Robby Woodward says:

    Thank you. I have searched and searched and searched and did not know why no one carried this tower! Now I know why. I just emailed them asking for replacement parts for my two toilets. I hope I get them. Like the toilets cause they do not get clogged. That’s rare in our house hold until we got this house with these toilets. Thanks again

  8. gary says:

    I have three of these champ 4 max toilets. 1 leaks and keeps refiling.

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Gary,
      As long as you have the upgraded flush valve in your toilet and not the original flush tower design the solution would be to install a new flapper. I recommend using a Korky # 3040BP flapper for this task, I’ve seen the OEM Flapper blister and leak under some water conditions.

      • Bill says:

        I’ve replaced the flapper with the Korky twice. Brand new flapper, this thing still leaks (ghost flush). What a nightmare.

        • Redwood says:

          Hi Bill,
          I’d look for other cases then. Is the bowl refill tube from the fill valve to the flush valve inserted down into the overflow tube to where it is below the tank water level and will siphon? Is the sealing surface of the flush valve against where the flapper seats smooth? Is the flush valve cracked? Is the flush valve tight and the seal in good condition? One thing that may help indicate where the leaking is occurring is to shut off the stop valve and see where the water level drops to.
          Hope this helps,

  9. Patti says:

    Just bought two brand new AS Champion 4 toilets at Lowes…Had a plumber come and install them and they are still leaking….Need to call AS today!! This sucks!!

  10. Jamie says:

    Is this still a problem or have the newest models been upgraded? I’m going out to buy toilets tomorrow and had decided on the Champion 4 until I read this.! Thanks!

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Jamie,
      The Champion 4 is the upgraded model and other than changing out the OEM flapper to a Korky Replacement nothing else should be needed.

  11. Mike says:

    Thank you. Now that I’ve found the solution to my American Standard toilet flush problem, I’ll call on Monday and ask for replacement flush valves for my 3 toilets. Love the toilets by the way; glad they fixed the problem.

  12. JerryR says:

    Very nice article Redwood.

    I would just like to make a little comment to anyone out there that has this toilet and needs to do this repair.
    Don’t hesitate to do it! Call American Standard and get those parts!

    I have 2 of these toilets in my home and even though the one wasn’t leaking (yet), they sent me a repair kit for that one too. And for anyone thinking they are not capable of doing this repair, I will just say yes you can! I have no plumbing knowledge what so ever. I drilled Redwood here with a bunch of questions and he answered every question in detail.

    Once I received my parts from American Standard and got started on the repair, it took me about 15 minutes to do. It would have taken a lot less time, but I was taking pictures of the whole process to send to Redwood, which he used to accompany this article.

    Thanks again Redwood for all your help and just a heads up….
    The wife wants me to rip the downstairs bathroom out and remodel it, so just a warning, more questions are coming! 🙂

    • Redwood says:

      Hi Jerry,
      Thank You so much for supplying the great pictures for this article!
      So often in my work I’m wishing that I had my camera with me for a job or, that I had slowed down and taken the time to get pictures of a job.

      If any other reader wants to help contribute for an article and get “close support” on a project please don’t hesitate to go to the “Contact Us” Page, and send me a message so we can start e-mailing back and forth the information.

      The wife wants me to rip the downstairs bathroom out and remodel it, so just a warning, more questions are coming!🙂

      Ut Oh! That sounds like a big project!
      Something like that would probably be better suited for posting in our brand new 411Plumb Forum.

      We may be able to break out parts of that job for additional articles. I really like the way this one turned out and your pictures were a big part of the article.

      Again Jerry,
      Thank You,

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